Monday, 13 August 2012

Week 10 – 80 Mile Beach and The Pilbara


From Cape Leveque we drove to 80 Mile Beach with a stop back in Broome to exchange a faulty snorkel and buy some beer (we are going to try our first home made damper). 

Now this place is well and truly on the top shelf.  We are greeted with more wind and a massive campground that had over 200 sites in it, but yet didn’t feel packed despite being majority full.  But the magic lay just over the sand dunes…a beach as it turned out over our couple fo days there would recede over a kilometer at low tide, from just off the base of the dunes out across an incredibly flat stretch of sand which was home to the most amazing array of shells I have ever seen.

We spent a day driving up the beach in search of shells and boy did we find some.  There were big ones, little ones, spirals, snails, cones, (not sure of the technical names) but every sort you could imagine in a range of colours.  After a few hours in the afternoon we returned with a big blue tub full of big ones, a big container of medium ones and two full smaller containers of smaller ones…with every shell having a WOW factor.  Needless to say Bron and the boys…or maybe Grandma Barb will have lots of craft  ahead of them.  And for me, I now have the joy of packing them and unpacking them everywhere we go. For the next couple of months.

Each tide deposits more and more shells on the beach and so even with so many people collecting  there are still heaps.  One lady at the campground who was there for 4 months escaping the cold down south had made little animals, wind chimes and mobiles out of the shells…all very cool.  But the funniest part of the experience was driving back along the beautiful beach as the sun set when Bronnie started squirming with one of the shells crawling across her foot.  It turned out that one of the shells she picked up was in fact home to a hermit crab which was now crawling around the car trying to find its way out!

Leaving 80 mile (and Hamburger Wednesday) behind we headed towards Karratha to see the Staircase to the Moon.   Only problem is WA has gone on school holidays and we cant get accommodation….why do kids and tourists need to get in our way.  So we head to a beach camp, run by the council and set up for 3 nights at Cleaverville Beach, tucked in behind the sand dunes with only our portaloo (not the collapsible varety) and our solar shower to provide any level of amenity.  Turned out to be a great few days.  The kids ran up and down the sad dune a thousand times, we had a good look around Dampier and the Red Dog statue, a quick squiz at Karratha (not much here) and a little ghost town called Cossack. 

Best of all though, we saw the staircase.   This was very cool.  As the moon rises over a low tide it reflects off the mudflats producing a set of lines that look like stairs all the way to the moon.  It is apparently only visible for 3 nights a month in a handful of spots between Broome and Karratha.

And so onwards we went, heading for another beach camp the other side of Karratha when we decided to just keep driving so we might get closer to Coral Bay (another place where we had no accomomodation booked).  Somewhere after dark we pulled up stumps in the middle of nowhere at some side of the road rest area, set up in the dark and listened to the sound of road trains passing on the road outside through the night, one of which decided it was a good game to blow his horn and wake everyone up.

Tomorrow we head to Coral Bay or Exmouth in the hope we can snare one of the 6 sites that don’t get pre booked.

Oh and if you are wondering, the first effort at beer damper was pretty good, even if we did burn the bottom black!

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