Monday, 16 July 2012

Week 9 – North of Broome …. Beach Camping and Cape Leveque


We have two nights to fill in before our booking at Kooljamin so decide on a spot of beach camping somewhere up the coast.  Milton, Rowena, Ryan and Ella decided to come as well, which is great because it means we can go where the tourists are not…there are a lot of tourists clogging up the good spots!

But first, a trip to Wyllie Creek Pearl Farm where we hear and see how the pearl is formed, how they are farmed and get to go out on a boat to see the naughty oysters in the creek…these are the ones that haven’t produced good pearls.  The creek is the most astonishing blue, a light blue not like typical sea blue but more like a pretty turquoisy blue...if that makes sense.  And on the bank on the other side of the creek is a saltwater croc…just a gently reminder that they are still about.  The tour itself was great, and perhaps the highlight was damper at morning tea, which not only was yummy but we got the recipe to make some ourselves….the excitement was too much.

Now to a beach camp, some 40kms odd up the cape we find a nice little spot out of the southerly and set up camp, just over the back of the beach beside a creek that has a bit of water in it but due to the low tides has stopped flowing through to the ocean for now.  Ahh the serenity, a fire at night, the wind died down and just us and the sound of the ocean.

Morning arrives and the wind unfortunately has turned in to an Easterly and is blowing straight through the area we are camped.   The toilet tent is sacrificed and pulled down, the tent is tied down to full jerry cans half buried in the sand and the spare tyre out of the car but we are secure and nothing is going to blow us away.

Now what you are about to read will potentially scare you away from beach or bush camping for life.  We have with us two toilets…a proper chemical toilet which we have used in places where the pit toilets are disgusting and there is a disposal point for the waste…and a collapsible toilet seat that we borrowed from Annie and Ron (they had never found a use for it in motels and hotels so it was not a pre loved seat) that you put a bag underneath and then bury your business.  At the beach camp we are using the latter, or at least the rest of the family is.

You see, mid morning rolls around and I can’t wait another two days to get to a proper toilet, so I grab my collapsible seat and shovel and off I head up over the sand dunes and find myself a nice little spot where I can see the ocean, tucked in out of the wind.  All in all turning out to be quite a successful journey when suddenly….splash.  I found out that the collapsible toilet seat is not called that because it folds up but more so because it doesn’t hold nearly 100kgs sitting on it.  Given I was nearly done, I now found myself in a right royal mess…and yes sand does stick!  So after cleaning myself up as best I could and burying everything, I went for my first swim in the Indian Ocean to remove any last souvenirs of my one, and only use of my dear sister in laws and brother in laws collapsible toilet.

Moving on, the wind did die down in the afternoon and we had a little drive up the beach and a swim and a play on the sand.  Milton caught a mudcrab which was pretty cool to see…big too with nippers that I wouldn’t want to play with.   A swim, this time because we wanted to go from a swim, and a roast dinner on the weber followed by another lovely fire in to the wee hours of the morning was a great end to the two nights on the beach, although we did pack up in a howling gale in the morning before driving down the beach and back onto the tracks that would ultimately take us up to Cape Leveque.

Kooljamin was amazing.  We lucked in on a cancellation and turned up to a site that overlooked the beach from the top of the cliffs with the sun setting before us.  It was low tide so we walked down the western beach, up around the point and back down the eastern beach.  At the point you looked back and could see down both beaches, the sun gleaming off the bright red cliff face making for a postcard moment.  Scenically spectacular, with a proper shower and toilet this place was well worth the effort getting up to it. 

Now for the Kooljamin toilet story….a family of three green tree frogs lived in these ones and at night when you went they would appear in the bottom or under the rim of either toilet…was a bit of a lucky dip really.  It made Bron a bit nervous going and Alex was definitely not going to use them if he could avoid them…but they were very cool even if their choice of dwelling was odd (although maybe not for a frog).

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